Journal · Himalaya · India
Leh, Turtuk and Nubra: how to plan a first trip to Ladakh
Ladakh is a high desert beyond the main Himalayan range, and the altitude decides the shape of any trip there. This route spends its first three nights in Leh, then makes a loop: north over a high pass to the village of Turtuk, back along the Nubra Valley, and over a second pass to the Indus at Nimmoo.
Why do you need three nights in Leh first?
To get used to the height. Leh lies far above the altitude most visitors live at, and the flight from Delhi gives the body no time to adjust. The first day should be spent resting and drinking water. Headache and breathlessness are common early on, and climbing higher before they pass is how people fall ill.
The days that follow can be gentle and still full: Leh Palace above the old town, the market, an arts centre in a restored house, and the Shanti Stupa at sunset. Thiksey and Hemis, two of the great monasteries, are a short drive up the Indus valley.
What is the road to Turtuk like?
Long, and among the highest roads anywhere. It crosses the Khardung La pass north of Leh and drops into the valley of the Shyok river, passing Diskit Monastery on the way. It takes a full day.
Turtuk is at the far end of that road, a Balti village of stone houses, apricot trees and water channels. Its people are Muslim, and its language and food belong to Baltistan. Two nights give a full day to walk its lanes.
What is there to do in the Nubra Valley?
- Villages. Kyagar and its neighbours, where old houses have been restored and opened to visitors.
- Sand dunes. The dunes at Sumur, on the valley floor, and a sky dark enough for the stars.
- Monasteries. Samstanling and Ensa, both smaller and quieter than the ones near Leh.
- A lake. Yarab Tso, a small lake hidden among rocks, reached by a short walk.
Why come back a different way?
To avoid the same pass twice, and to end in a village rather than the town. The return crosses the Wari La, a quieter pass further east, and comes down to the Indus. Nimmoo, where the Zanskar river joins it, is a village among orchards, with the old temples of Alchi a short drive away.
The high passes can close without notice after snow or a landslide. Keep the last night within easy reach of Leh airport, as this route does.
Quick answers
How many days do you need to acclimatise in Leh?
Plan on at least two full days of rest and easy sightseeing in Leh before going higher. This route allows three nights there.
When is the best time to visit Ladakh?
Summer. The roads over the high passes are open then, and the days are warm. In winter much of the region is cut off by snow.
Is Turtuk worth the long drive?
Yes, if there are two nights to spend there. It is a Balti village unlike anywhere else in Ladakh, at the end of a full day on the road from Leh.
Before you book: check the whole trip at once
The trip begins and ends with a flight at Leh, and the last morning, a drive from Nimmoo to the airport, is the journey most often left out.
Trips by Manr.ai puts your hotels and transport on one timeline and checks for gaps, overlaps and missing legs. Type a booking in, drop in the PDF, or paste the confirmation email. With an account and sync switched on, you can also forward confirmations to trips@manr.ai from the address you signed in with. Nothing joins your trip until you have seen it and added it.