Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka by bullet train: how the classic Japan route works

Why does this route start and end in Tokyo?

Flights from India land at Narita, east of the city, and the airport express runs straight into Tokyo Station. Staying near the station, in Ginza or Kyobashi, means no second transfer with luggage after an overnight flight, and the same hotel works again at the end of the trip.

Splitting Tokyo in two also splits the city sensibly. The first nights suit the east: the outer market at Tsukiji early in the morning, the tidal gardens at Hamarikyu next door, and the water bus up the Sumida River to Asakusa, which saves a day of subway stairs. The last nights suit the west: Harajuku, Meiji Jingu, Shibuya and Shinjuku.

Is the Japan Rail Pass worth it for Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka?

Usually not, for this loop. The national pass became much more expensive a few years ago, and a simple Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Tokyo circuit is now generally cheaper on separate tickets. Compare the current pass price with the fares for these three journeys before buying either.

Tickets for single journeys can be bought online through the railway’s own booking service or at the station. Large suitcases need a seat reservation with luggage space on this line, so check the size rule before booking. On a clear morning, the right-hand window seats heading out of Tokyo look towards Mount Fuji.

How do you avoid the crowds in Kyoto in autumn?

Late November is the peak of the autumn colour, and it is when Japan itself comes to Kyoto. The city buses on the main streets slow to a crawl. The two subway lines and the local JR lines are far more reliable, and most of the well-known places are a walk from a station.

• Arashiyama. Take an early local train and walk the bamboo grove before the tour coaches arrive, then the garden at Tenryu-ji when it opens.
• Higashiyama. Kiyomizu-dera looks over a ravine of maples and is busiest in the afternoon. The lanes below it are calmer towards evening.
• Evening openings. Most temples close to day visitors before dusk, and several reopen after dark in the colour season with the maples lit. Eikando is one of them.
• Fushimi Inari. A short local train ride south. The lower gates are crowded; the path keeps climbing, and it empties quickly above the first viewpoint.

How long do you need in Osaka?

Two nights is enough for a first visit. Osaka is a very short Shinkansen hop from Kyoto, and the subway runs from the Shinkansen station into Umeda and on to Namba. The castle grounds are worth a daytime walk for the ginkgo trees along the moat. The evenings belong to food: the canal at Dotonbori, the fried-skewer counters of Shinsekai, and Kuromon market the next morning.

What is worth seeing in Tokyo in late November?

Kyoto has the maples; Tokyo has the ginkgo. The avenue at Meiji Jingu Gaien turns yellow towards the end of the month, though the timing shifts from year to year. From there it is a walk through Harajuku to the wooded grounds of Meiji Jingu and on to Shibuya. A rooftop view booked for late afternoon takes in the city by daylight, at sunset and lit up, all in one visit.

On the last day, an evening flight leaves the morning open. Leave the bags at the hotel, and take the airport express from Tokyo Station with plenty of time in hand.